Saturday, March 25, 2017

passionfruit curd donuts

passionfruit curd donuts



A few months ago, I wrote about moving down to San Francisco and feeling lost. I didn't know the best places to eat, how to shop for obscure (and not so obscure) ingredients, and where to find a quiet coffee shop to get work done. At that time, the city didn't feel like home to me. I wandered around from store to store, trying to find some passionfruit for this recipe.

Well. It took me three months, but I finally freakin' found some!*

*Actually, that's a little bit of a lie. Erlend found it for me while he was looking for weird fruit (a hobby of his) at the Mexican markets down in the Mission. But WHATEVER. Passionfruit found. Mission accomplished.


These days, I'm a little more settled in San Francisco, but there are still stumbles here and there. Interestingly enough, my life here in the big city seems quieter and less adventurous than the one in Portland. Back there, it was easy to jump in the car or hop on my bike to find something to do on a whim. But San Francisco is a place where people routinely scramble to book dinner reservations months ahead of time (as well as reserve campsites six months out, which is just bananas to me), so it's a lot harder to be spontaneous and find something new without planning in advance.

So, living in San Francisco has made me more of a homebody. There are more weekends in, more hours spent perfecting my pies, and more days dreaming up new desserts. Adventure no longer comes in the form of seeking out new restaurants and bakeries; instead, it comes from reading about ones from far away places, both foreign and familiar, and trying to recreate them at home.


These passionfruit donuts are one such example. I first read about Leonard Bakery's malasadas in one of the earlier issues of Lucky Peach a couple years ago. If you're unfamiliar with malasadas, they're basically Hawaiian donuts — they don't have a traditional hole, and are originally based on a Portuguese donut recipe. Although the first malasadas were just rolled in sugar, Leonard's also offered ones filled with different custards and curds made from coconuts, pineapples, and passionfruit. Each of Lenny's malasadas is made to order, and the article described them as light and crisp pillows that melted in your mouth.


After reading the article and knowing I wasn't going to make it to Hawaii any time soon, I went ahead and tried the malasada recipe in Lucky Peach (adapted by Momofuku Milk Bar's Christina Tosi, no less). But somewhere along the line, I tripped and ended up with malasada donut holes instead. Tasty, sure, but not quite the real thing.

This recipe, however, strikes a little closer to the mark. These donuts are not only the right size, but they do indeed taste as promised: light, crisp, and melt-in-your-mouthy. It definitely helped that, for the first time in my donut making career, I was actually able to evenly fry the donuts! Each donut came out of the fryer in the perfect shade of gold, mostly thanks to my shiny new copper core All-Clad pots (seriously, copper core cookware rocks — check out the notes below)! I immediately filled each freshly fried, still-warm donut with the tangy and creamy passionfruit curd I'd prepared beforehand. The contrast between the warm dough and the cool curd was heavenly. Before I realized it, I'd eaten three in one sitting. If that isn't a good donut, I don't know what is.


Thank you to All-Clad for sponsoring this post by providing me with the All-Clad TK pots and pans that I used to make the donuts in this post.  The great Chef Thomas Keller of French Laundry and Per Se fame actually helped design the pots himself! In particular, I loved the copper core of the stainless steel pots and pans I received. Stainless steel pots are great in the kitchen because they're durable and can take a beating, but they can also have a reputation for uneven, spotty heat distribution. All copper pots are kind of on the opposite end of the spectrum — they are extremely conductive and transfer heat evenly, but are a pain in the butt to maintain. Stainless steel pots with a copper core end up with the best of both worlds — durable and easy to clean, with the ability to heat up quickly and evenly. Check out the full All-Clad TK collection, but be sure to read the specs — only some of the pots and pans have a copper core.

As always, all the thoughts and opinions expressed just now are mine and mine alone. I just really like my sponsors! Thank you for supporting Hummingbird High and all the folks who make it possible for me to bring you guys all the baked goods.


featured:
 all-clad tk 2/3-quart copper core sauce pot || crate and barrel irish coffee mug || ikea tekla dish towel || sur la table italian lace salad plate (no longer available, sadly) || sur la table salt spoon || crate and barrel bread and butter plate || riess pesca porcelain baking pan || taylor candy/deep-fry thermometer || all-clad tk 3-quart copper core sautoir pot || sur la table oil and vinegar tray



Some baker's notes:
  • You can use either fresh passionfruit juice (with the seeds strained out) or frozen passionfruit puree in this recipe. Fresh passionfruit was a little hard for me to source, but I would occasionally (and rather randomly) see it at major supermarkets like Whole Foods and even Safeway. You can also use passionfruit puree, which can be found in the frozen section of Latin American markets or even online (but for a much steeper price). Whatever you do though, don't use artificial/shelf-stable passionfruit juice. They put a ton of extra sweetener and artificial preservatives in there that'll just ruin your curd.

  • Plan ahead for this one! You should make the passionfruit curd first so that it's ready to go when the donuts are fresh and warm; the curd keeps in a airtight glass jar for up to two weeks. The dough works best if you make it ahead of time and let it chill overnight in the fridge — you end up with prettier donuts that keep their shape!

get the recipe »

Available link for download